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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.